Rift Lake Cichlids
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what is thiS?

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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:43 am

ok but im not going to change all 45 galllons... oonly 10
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Post by cichlidman Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:50 am

Got it now..
9 now, and add back for what you change.
I would change about 20 gallons after that each time.
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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:50 am

ok thanks guys allot
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Post by bulldogg7 Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:50 am

Just one more reason not to suggest medications with a per gallon dosage around here lol!
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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:21 pm

did 3 table spoons of API salt and a cap full of melafix just now and raised the temp to 75 it was 72 :O i had it at 82 but i thought 10 degrees is allot for ventralis so i changed to 75
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Post by Scott Sun Jan 24, 2010 3:24 pm

This is not an attempt to start an argument and I truly hope that it does not. Here goes -

I find it interesting that a course of treatment was suggested without knowing or asking what the problem is or could be. The first question should always be water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temp) because poor water quality is the biggest reason fish get sick. Most of the fish disease causing parasites are in our tanks right now. Bad water quality causes low immune system response. Low immune system response can causes our fish to get sick. The problem isn’t Fin Rot, Ich, Hole in the head or Popeye. The problem is what caused it to make our fish sick.

So yeah, a water change, some meds and a sprinkle of salt will help this particular fish but what about next time?

I said that the parasites are in our tanks right now. What I mean here is that we often purchase new fishy stuff, run home and throw it right in the display tank after acclimation. We should all be using a quarantine tank that could take care of most of these issues. I will be the first to admit that I don’t.

So, as responsible fish keepers, I think we should put a list of questions(Sticky??) together that should be asked when people are asking for help with sick fish. In this way, we can help them and others find out why and hopefully keep the problem from recurring.

My top two questions are:
1. Water Parameters
2. Recent changes, additions or subtractions to the tank

I look forward to your thoughts
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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 4:39 pm

i like the way you think but the parameters should be fine i do weekly water changes and havent added any new fish since prolly idk hey mike how long ago was it when i add the giant dannys? i also QT them for a month and have had no problems. i was thinking maybe the net i used to net dead corys out of the 40 breeder to move a pvc cave in there did it so idk
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Post by Scott Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:22 pm

D, this is not directed at you because I have seen it many times before from people with more time in this hobby than both of us put together.

Water parameters are never "fine." They are a specific number, give or take little for interpretation of color.

Believe it or not, this is not just 20 questions. This does lead somewhere so lets start here:

Your specific water parameter numbers can help figure out why you may be having problems lately. Just because you have been doing weekly water changes doesnt mean you are doing the right thing. What type of water are you using? (Tap, RO, etc) What are the parameters of the water you add to your tank? Do you use any additives or water buffering agents?
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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:30 pm

i got you i under stand its not RO cause i dont want soft water for a tang WC caught tank its tap PH 7.5 hardness like 200 and a touch of chlorine and my ph in the tank is about 8 thank to the lime stone and i have a sponge filter going and sponges in my penguin 350 for that extra bio to help keep nitrites lower any thing else? oh yea no buffers i am lucky that my water is good for tangs
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Post by Scott Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:49 pm

With evaporation loss, top offs and weekly water changes with chlorinated water, you could be creating high chlorine levels. something to look into. Nitrite should never be anything more than zero. If it is, your nitrate cycle is not complete and stabilized. Also, as you stated the temp to be 72, that is way too cold i my opinion. Temp is probably the biggest reason for health issues.
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Post by Drake-tripod Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:49 pm

yea i didnt know it was at that i am still kicking my self in the tail for it and i de cholor my top off water ventralis are sensitive to it and they are WC so im really careful
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Post by preacherboy Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:50 pm

I like the idea of a "sticky" being posted up here with some necessary questions to be answered by the person who has a question about their fish being sick.

It would go a long way in helping us understand "why" the person may be having a problem, help to cure the disease if possible, and also help to prevent the disease from reoccuring in the future.

We all know the saying;

"An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure!"
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Post by Drake-tripod Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:00 pm

so its looking better now im going to do a water change tomorrow how much less salt do i add this time?
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Post by cancichfan Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:54 pm

Just curious, did it work?

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Post by Drake-tripod Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:18 pm

yea the salt worked fine i only dossed 2 times
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